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Namibia Routes

Here are the route descriptions for some of the new routes on Spitzkoppe

For detailed pics of some of the climbing on the routes see

Round 1 ,2 and 3 on Namibia Page

South West Wall

  

1.) Active Side of Infinity    2.) Beyond suntan lotion   3.) Nothing in Moderation

 4.) Watersports     5.) Herero Arch     6.) INXS     7.) SW wall      8.) Royal Flush

 Routes in yellow are new, and info available below. Routes in Red are older and info available in Route book by Echardt Haber

Active Side of Infinity 25 A0 ****

Mark Seuring, Alard Hüfner, Voitec Modrzewski,    March 2002 

The route is on the South West wall of Spitzkoppe Namibia and starts about 15m to the right of the starting crack of Herero Arch (see Spitzkoppe route book). Walk along a horizontal ramp until you can see a shallow open book leading up to a thin flake.  

  1. 21 A0.35m.Climb shallow open book rail right and mantelshelf onto narrow ledge. Climb thin flake moving into aid moves when flake shallows out.
  2. 25. A0.30m. climb water streak to pocket, step out left and up to stance, last 3m have not been freed. Endurance face climbing.
  3. 24. 18m. Continue up streak to Jacuzzi ledge.
  4. 22. 40m. from Jacuzzi ledge traverse out right, and then up to stance in hollow.
  5. 21. 45m. From stance traverse right and then climb up face to slanting ledge, continue up crack to stance in hollow.
  6. 17.20m. climb diagonally up and right past hollows to stance.
  7. 21.30m. traverse right, across the INXS water streak to stance shared with INXS.
  8. 19. 60m. Step right and follow break up and slightly right. INXS follows water streak going up and slightly left.
  9. 25. 45m. Step out of hollow on right, then follow bolts up face. Technical face climbing.
  10. 21. 58m. Crystal pocket pitch. Continue up following bolts till huge ledge is reached. Fun climbing. NB long pitch 58m
  11. 21.20m. Walk back to where ledge steepens and climb diagonal left slanting crack to top.

 Gear needed: 14 Qiuckdraws, 60meter rope, good climbing shoes.

 Note: The route is well bolted with about 120 bolts. The route was bolted top down. All pitches have been redpointed in a day.

 

 

Beyond Suntan Lotion 24 or22 A0 ****

 

1.

40m 24 A0

Start as for South West Wall Route. Continue past chains for 10m to a bolted stance. Sport.

 

2.

30m 18

Variation to South West Wall Route. (Note: bolts have been removed  except at stances) Traverse right to start of crack & continue up to a hanging bolted stance. Trad.

 

3.

30m 17

Follow crack to where it rejoins South West Wall Route (bolted stance). Trad.

 

4.

10m

Abseil down to the right to a bolted stance.

 

5.

30m 22 A0

Traverse out right (A0) then move up (22) to bolted stance at the start of the main crack. Sport.

 

6.

60m 18

Follow crack to a single bolted stance. (Use gear to back up.) Trad

 

7.

30m 18

Follow crack to a bush. Trad

 

8.

15m 19

Follow crack to another single bolted stance. Trad.

 

9.

50m 20

Follow crack passing a single bolt & make stance in the hanging tree.Trad

 

10.

25m 18

Follow crack to its end to a bolted stance. Trad

 

11.

60m 20

Climb up tending left to rejoin South West Wall Route. Although bolted bring trad gear to make a stance. Sport

 

12…

(21,16,13)

Complete the last three pitches of South West Wall Route.

 Notes: Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined into one 60m pitch.

 Gear: A standard rack and as many large camming units that you can lay your hands on. 4* #3’s, 3 or 4 #4’s & if you are lucky to have a #5 then bring it as well.

 Opened by Dermot Brogan & Voytek Modrevski, March 2002.

 

Nothing in Moderation 25 A0 *****

"Nothing in Moderation" 25 14 pitches ***** trad and sport climbing.
Mark Seuring, Alard Hüfner, Steve Broccardo. September 2001

To the right of the SW route on the South West face of Spitzkoppe there is a
corner system that ends up in a huge arch. The route follows this and at the
right side of the arch it goes through the bulge and onto the face.
Start 15m the left of Watersports, 40m right of the SW route in
corner/chimney.

1) 19, 50m chimney /crack, belay past the tree.
2) 17, 50m stay in left crack to avoid grass and vegetation.
3) 20, 55m crack. stance in tree.
4) 24, 18m leave tree, continue in corner system for about 6m then head up
  face on good grips to reach strenuous crack system leading up into  arch.
5) 24,  30m "Jou Ma se Pa" pitch. Superb lay backing, hand jamming crack,
6) 25, 12m flaring off width horizontal crack. Very strenuous! The Ox wagon
Pitch. You need to be strong enough to pull an ox wagon for this pitch.
bolted, so it could be A0.
7) 18, 40m climb crack, then up to loose looking flakes to stance at base of
large final arch.
8) 20, 45m this pitch climbs the huge curving corner crack leading to the
  top of the arch. superb!
9) 15, 20m  continue in corner till one is able to reach stance at bolts.
10) A0, 20m pull on bolts through bulge on right side of arch. Needs to be
freed!
11) 23, 50m face climbing
12) 17, 50m superb face climbing
13) 17, 45m superb face climbing, head left into corner crack. Stance at end
of corner
14) 15. 40m traverse left and step up to join up with summit of INXS and
South West Route.

Descent same as SW route, i.e. scramble down gully
Retreat. 50m abseil from tree at end of pitch 3, and 60m off bolt at end of
pitch 5 and 6.

recommended gear:
3x camelot 4 or equivalent
2x cam. 3
3x cam 2
2x cam 1.5
2 x cam 1
2x cam 0.5
1 or 2 smaller cams.
6 medium to large nuts
14 Quick draws


 The reason there are so many pitches is that the route goes diagonally
right, so you cover nearly as much horizontal as you do vertical distance.
Some of the cracks are of similar width so one runs out of suitable gear
and has to make a stance.

We climbed the route over 5 days fixing lines and bolting on lead, and then
Mark and Alard did a one-day ascent freeing all the pitches except for the
aid pitch.

 

Watersports 20 ****

If you like layback cracks, this climb is for you!! Superb!! Solid gear placements all the way. The opening ascent was done in 3 pitches, but if you run out of gear make a stance.  Climb till you reach the bolts. Need double rope to abseil down.

The climb starts to the right of the South West wall route, and takes the clean line up the right-hand huge arch.

1) 18 The start is steep, but it eases off later.

2)18 Good climbing.

3)20 The crack narrows, climb till you reach bolts for abseil.

Opening party: Voitec Modrewski, Marianne Pretorius, Alard Hüfner 2001

 

Klipdachswand

 

A cup of tea and two chimneys 18 **

Fig-Arch grade 17**

2 new routes, on the Klipdachswand. The right Chimney called Figarch grade 17 and the left chimney is called "a cup of tea and two chimneys" 18. Both routes are about 3 pitches long. They were both opened solo by Alard in an afternoon.

 

Hippo Rock

 

Hippo Rock is the smaller slab left of the South West wall. It has 5,4,3 drawn onto it

5, 4,3  ***17

A fun slab route  with all pitches at grade 17. The route name originates from the number of bolts per pitch. The first pitch has 5 bolts the second pitch 4 bolts and the third pitch 3 bolts.

Opened By Mark Seuring, Alard Hüfner and Voitec Modrewski. pitches bolted in that order on lead.

 

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